Tag: how to light background without shadows

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YOUTUBE

Back Light for YouTube: Where to Put It (Without Glare and Halos)

Disclosure: Some links on this page may be affiliate links (including Amazon). If you choose to buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend gear and upgrade paths I genuinely believe are sensible for creators.

Written by Alan Spicer

  • YouTube Certified Expert (Audience Growth, Channel Management, Content Strategy)
  • YouTube & Digital Media Consultant (including work with Coin Bureau brands)
  • Built repeatable growth systems across multiple channels (including 0→20k in 2 months and 15k→100k in 8 months)
  • Recipient of 6× YouTube Silver Play Buttons

My bias: most creators don’t need a dramatic “rim light”. A subtle background light (lamp) often looks more natural and is easier to control.

Back Light vs Background Light for YouTube: What’s the Difference (and Which Do You Need)? (UK)

Once you’ve got a key light, you start noticing the next problem:

Your background looks flat, you blend into it, and the whole shot feels a bit… “webcam”.

That’s when creators hear about “back lights”, “hair lights”, “rim lights” and “background lighting” — and it quickly turns into a gear rabbit hole.

This guide keeps it simple:

  • What a back light is
  • What a background light is
  • Which one to add first
  • How to place it so it looks good (not like a halo)

Quick answer

A back light (hair/rim light) hits you from behind to create an outline and separate you from the background. A background light lights the scene behind you (often a lamp or subtle LED) to create depth. For most YouTubers, a background light is the easiest, most natural-looking first upgrade. A back light is worth adding when you want a more controlled studio look and you can keep it subtle.

The 60-second decision tree

  • Your background looks dead/flat → add a background light (lamp/low-power LED).
  • You blend into a dark background → background light first, or move away from the wall.
  • You want a sharper “studio” separation edge → add a subtle back light.
  • You’re in a tiny room close to a wall → background light usually looks better than rim light.
  • You keep getting glare/halos → your back light is too bright or aimed wrong.

Rule of thumb: if you only add one “second light”, make it a background practical.

Back light vs background light (plain English)

Light What it does What it’s best for What it can mess up
Back light (hair/rim light) Hits you from behind to create a bright edge Clean separation in controlled studio-style setups Halos, glare, shiny shoulders, “over-produced” look
Background light Lights the background (or adds a practical lamp) Depth, warmth, a more intentional scene Distracting hotspots if too bright or aimed badly

Most YouTubers want depth. A background light often gives depth with less fuss and less “studio glare”.

Which one should you add first?

Here’s the simplest upgrade order that works for most creators:

Goal Add first Why
Make the shot look less flat Background light Creates depth, looks natural, works in small rooms
Reduce harsh facial shadows Reflector / fill Softens face lighting without killing depth
Studio-style separation edge Back light Gives a defined rim but needs careful control

This connects directly with the two-light vs three-point decision post:

Back light placement (no halos, no glare)

A back light should be subtle. If it’s obvious, it’s usually too bright.

Placement baseline:

  • Behind you and slightly to the side
  • Higher than your head (aimed down gently)
  • Aimed at shoulders/hairline — not your face

Brightness rule: it should be a gentle edge, not a bright outline.

Halo fix checklist:

  • Dim it
  • Move it further back
  • Aim it lower (shoulders rather than crown)
  • Feather it so it “skims” rather than blasts

Background light placement (looks natural, not distracting)

A background light is usually easiest when it’s a practical (a lamp in shot) or a subtle LED aimed at part of the background.

Placement tips:

  • Put a lamp behind you and off to one side (not directly behind your head)
  • Keep it dim enough that it doesn’t steal attention
  • Aim background LEDs at the wall indirectly (soft pools of light look better than harsh circles)
  • If your wall is very close, keep the light low-power and closer to the wall than to you

Good goal: your face is still the brightest thing. The background just has shape and depth.

Small room tips (avoid creating new problems)

Small rooms are where creators most often regret adding a back light. The light ends up too close and too bright, which creates glare or weird shadows.

Small room best practice: background practical first, back light later (if at all).

If you’re fighting wall shadows, read this first:

Common mistakes (and the fix)

Mistake What it causes Fix
Back light too bright Halo / shiny outline Dim it, move it back, aim at shoulders
Background light aimed straight at wall Harsh hotspot circle Bounce it or feather it; reduce power
Light directly behind your head Distracting “glow” halo Move it to the side so it adds depth, not a target
Mixing warm lamp + cool key light Odd skin tones Keep key light dominant; keep background subtle
Trying to solve everything with separation Still looks “off” Fix key light placement first

What not to do

  • Don’t add a back light before your key light is correct. You’ll highlight the wrong problems.
  • Don’t run a back light brighter than your key. Your face should stay the focus.
  • Don’t aim lights directly into the lens. Glare and washed-out contrast follows.
  • Don’t create a bright hotspot on the background. Subtle pools of light look more “intentional”.
  • Don’t increase setup friction if consistency is your bottleneck. A simple two-light setup is often the best long-term choice.

Who this is not for

  • Creators doing cinematic motivated lighting with multiple practicals and scene lighting
  • Studio setups with overhead rigs and controlled environments
  • People filming large group shots (different lighting needs)

Start here for gear picks and bundles:

Lighting cluster (where this post plugs in):

If you want Amazon UK searches (tagged so the session is credited):

FAQs (People Also Ask style)

What’s the difference between a back light and a background light?

A back light (hair/rim light) lights you from behind to create an outline. A background light lights the scene behind you (often a lamp or subtle LED) to create depth.

Do I need a back light for YouTube?

Not usually. Many creators get better results by adding a subtle background practical first. A back light is useful if you want a more controlled studio look.

What’s the best way to separate yourself from the background?

Move away from the wall and add a subtle background light (lamp/LED). Keep your face brightest in frame.

Where should I place a back light?

Behind you and slightly to the side, higher than head height, aimed at your shoulders/hairline, and kept subtle.

Why does my back light look like a halo?

It’s too bright, too close, or aimed at the top of your head. Dim it, move it back, and aim lower at shoulders.

Is a lamp a background light?

Yes. A lamp in the background is often the easiest, most natural-looking background light for YouTube.

Can I use RGB lights as a background light?

Yes, but keep it subtle. Over-saturated backgrounds can distract and look gimmicky if overdone.

Will background lighting fix wall shadows?

Not directly. Wall shadows are mainly a placement and distance problem. Background lighting helps depth, not shadow removal.

Should the background be brighter than my face?

Usually no. Your face should stay the brightest thing in frame. Background lighting should add depth, not steal attention.

What should I add after a key light: fill, back light, or background light?

Most creators do best with fill (reflector) if shadows are harsh, or a background light if the shot looks flat. Back lights are optional and should be subtle.



Categories
YOUTUBE

YouTube Lighting: Stop Wall Shadows Without Buying More Lights (UK)

Disclosure: Some links on this page may be affiliate links (including Amazon). If you choose to buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend gear and upgrade paths I genuinely believe are sensible for creators.

Written by Alan Spicer

  • YouTube Certified Expert (Audience Growth, Channel Management, Content Strategy)
  • YouTube & Digital Media Consultant (including work with Coin Bureau brands)
  • Built repeatable growth systems across multiple channels (including 0→20k in 2 months and 15k→100k in 8 months)
  • Recipient of 6× YouTube Silver Play Buttons

My bias: wall shadows are rarely a “buy more gear” problem. They’re almost always a distance, angle, and softness problem.

How to Stop Shadows on the Wall Behind You (YouTube Lighting Fix for Small Rooms)

If you’re filming in a spare room, a desk corner, or anywhere you’re close to a wall, you’ve probably seen it:

A harsh, distracting shadow on the wall behind you.

It looks amateur. It makes the shot feel cramped. And it’s frustrating because you can buy a better light and still have the same problem.

This guide shows you the fixes that actually work — in the right order — without turning your room into a studio.

Quick answer

To stop shadows on the wall behind you: move yourself further from the wall, bring your key light closer to you (not the wall), and soften the light (diffusion or bounce) so the shadow edge isn’t harsh. If you can’t move far, angle the key light so the shadow falls out of frame and add a small background practical (lamp/LED) to create separation.

The 60-second decision tree

  • Shadow is sharp and dark → you’re too close to the wall and/or the light is too “hard”.
  • Shadow is huge and distracting → your light is far away and hitting the wall strongly.
  • Shadow only appears on one side → move the light slightly and push the shadow out of frame.
  • You can’t move away from the wall → soften the light and add separation (background practical).
  • Your footage looks noisy when you dim the light → keep your face bright, but soften/diffuse instead of reducing brightness too much.

Rule of thumb: distance from the wall reduces shadows faster than buying more lights.

Why wall shadows happen (in plain English)

A wall shadow happens when your key light hits you and then hits the wall behind you. The closer you are to the wall, the more obvious the shadow becomes — and the smaller/harder the light source, the sharper the shadow edge looks.

So the fix is simple: increase the distance from the wall, reduce how much direct light hits the wall, and soften the light so any shadow that remains is less distracting.

Fast fixes (do these in order)

  1. Move your chair forward (even 30–60cm helps a lot).
  2. Bring the key light closer to you so it “wraps” your face more and hits the wall less.
  3. Angle the key light down and slightly off to the side (45° is a good starting point).
  4. Soften the light (diffusion or bounce) so the shadow edge is less harsh.
  5. Add a small background practical to create separation so the wall matters less.

If you want a simple, repeatable placement baseline first, this post is the foundation:

How far from the wall should you sit when filming?

There’s no perfect number because rooms and lights vary, but here’s a practical guide:

Distance from wall What usually happens Best use
0–20cm Harsh, obvious shadow almost guaranteed Only if you must, and you’ll need softness + angle tricks
30–60cm Shadow reduces noticeably Realistic “small room” improvement zone
1m+ Shadow becomes much less distracting Ideal if you can manage it

If you can only make one change: get yourself out of that 0–20cm “stuck to the wall” zone.

Make the shadow softer (diffusion and bounce)

If the shadow edge is sharp, your light is too “hard” (small source or direct). Softer light makes shadows less defined and less noticeable.

Easy ways to soften light:

  • Use diffusion (a diffuser/softbox) so the source is larger and gentler.
  • Bounce the light off a white wall or foam board (soft, flattering, cheap).
  • Move the light closer to your face (so your face is lit more than the wall behind).

Important: don’t “solve” harsh shadows by dimming the light until your video is noisy. Keep your face bright — just soften the light.

Angle fixes (move the shadow out of frame)

If you can’t increase wall distance enough, you can often push the shadow out of frame by changing where the light sits.

  • Move the key light slightly more to the side so the shadow falls outside the camera view.
  • Raise the key light slightly higher and angle it down (often reduces big wall shadows).
  • Move the key light closer to you so it hits you more than the wall.

Use your camera preview as a feedback loop. Two small moves can change everything.

Lighting the background (without lighting the whole room)

Sometimes the goal isn’t “remove every shadow”. It’s “make the shot look intentional”. The easiest way to do that is separation:

  • Add a small lamp behind you (warm practical light works well).
  • Or add a low-power LED pointed at the background (softly, not blasting).
  • Keep it subtle — you want depth, not a spotlight on the wall.

These lighting pillars connect directly:

Fixes by light type (ring light, softbox, LED panel)

Light type Why it causes wall shadows Best fix If you’re on a budget
Ring light Often used front-on; hits wall evenly Move it off-axis and closer to you; add softness Use it slightly off-centre and keep the wall darker
Softbox / soft key Usually fine, but shadows appear when you’re too close to wall Move yourself forward; keep light close and angled down Softboxes are great value when space allows
LED panel Can be harsh and throw sharper shadows if undiffused Add diffusion and move light closer to you Bounce it off a wall/foam board for softness

What not to do

  • Don’t accept “back against the wall” setups. That’s the shadow factory.
  • Don’t dim your light until the camera looks noisy. Softness and angle are the fix.
  • Don’t put the light far away. Distant lights hit the wall more and create bigger shadows.
  • Don’t use ceiling lights to “fill” the problem. They usually make faces look worse.
  • Don’t buy more lights before you fix distance and angle. You’ll just create more shadows.

Who this is not for

  • Creators with a dedicated studio and permanent overhead rigging
  • People doing cinematic scene lighting (not talking-head YouTube)
  • Anyone who can’t move anything and wants a zero-effort fix

Start here for bundles and scenario-based picks:

Lighting cluster (where this post plugs in):

If you want Amazon UK searches (tagged so the session is credited):

FAQs (People Also Ask style)

Why is there a shadow on the wall behind me when I film?

Because your key light is lighting you and the wall behind you. If you’re close to the wall or the light is hard/direct, the shadow becomes sharp and obvious.

How do I stop shadows on the wall behind me?

Move away from the wall, bring the light closer to you (not the wall), soften the light with diffusion or bounce, and adjust the angle so the shadow falls out of frame.

How far should I sit from the wall when filming?

If you can, aim for 30–60cm as a minimum improvement. Around 1m+ is ideal, but small rooms often can’t manage that.

Will a softbox stop wall shadows?

It helps because the light is softer, but distance and angle still matter. Even a softbox will create a wall shadow if you sit right against the wall.

Do ring lights cause wall shadows?

They can, especially when used front-on and when you’re close to a wall. Moving the ring light off-axis and closer to you often reduces the shadow.

How do I soften harsh shadows on camera?

Use diffusion, bounce the light off a white surface, or move the light closer to your face so it wraps more gently.

Why is the shadow worse in a small room?

Because you have less distance between you and the wall, and lights are often closer and more direct.

Can I fix wall shadows without buying more lights?

Yes. Most fixes are placement-based: wall distance, light angle, and light softness.

Should I light the background to remove the shadow?

Sometimes. A small background practical or a subtle background light can make the shot feel intentional, even if a faint shadow remains.

Does moving the key light closer help shadows?

Often yes — if the light is closer to you, it lights your face more than the wall behind you, which reduces how noticeable the wall shadow is.



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